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Post by Da Gamesmedic (Admin) on Dec 20, 2017 16:50:54 GMT -8
I got his one in a couple of weeks ago. Gentleman forgot the keys so I had to wait for him to mail them before working on it. Unfortunately last week was the huge #ThomasFire that took out half the homes on the Ventura Hillsides and Ojai, all the way up to Santa Barbara, so the mail got screwed up and I couldn't start until a couple days ago. Just as luck would have it, Monday I came down with the flu. So I started today after being seriously doped up. Here are the photos: Attachments:
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Post by Da Gamesmedic (Admin) on Dec 28, 2017 11:24:35 GMT -8
I started by checking all mechanisms for functionality. Selector system is working but intermittently. Motor was not starting on it own. After starting the teardown, I found the lift arm was not moving, which is why no records would be loaded into the carriage. The cause of this is that the lubricant (grease) of the era was hydrocarbon based. [Etymology of Hydrocarbon = hydro (water) + carbon] It has dried up. Introducing another hydrocarbon based light weight oil and working the mechanism by hand will eventually free it. Sometimes you even have to disassemble the mechanism to clean the old grease away and reassemble. I use 3 in 1 oil, as that seems to work best.
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Post by Da Gamesmedic (Admin) on Dec 28, 2017 11:29:42 GMT -8
Still stuck on the motor not starting on its own. I am thinking the usual culprit is the round 1.4Uf run capacitor and started looking for sources. There are still sources, however, be prepared to pay bout $50 plus shipping. Attachments:
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Post by Da Gamesmedic (Admin) on Dec 28, 2017 11:31:57 GMT -8
Before going out and buying one I decided to check through the schematics and make sure I didn't miss anything. Sure enough, I forgot about "O" contact on the back of the carriage lightly filed and readjusted, the motor started on its own no problem.
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Post by Da Gamesmedic (Admin) on Dec 28, 2017 11:43:22 GMT -8
Still having selector issues. The Digital read write-boxes of this era are notorious for going bad, and I cringe every time I have to deal with a selector issue. In this case however, the tormat itself was having minor corrosion issues. I removed the tormat and lightly removed the corrosion from each contact with a jewelers file. DO NOT FILE too much, only enough to remove the corrosion. When all contacts are clean, I use a lightweight graphite based grease, thinly coating the contacts to help prevent future corrosion. Molydenum, or Molylube, is usually sufficient. the graphite is also conductive which helps for good contact from the wipers. After another hour of grueling reassembly, and adjusting, the unit plays every record. Be careful to make sure the alignment is put back the way you found it, or close, or the tormat will not be in sync with the position pulse contact on the drive train leading to A sides being found and played but B sides will not.
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Post by Da Gamesmedic (Admin) on Dec 28, 2017 11:50:46 GMT -8
And here we have a short clip of the unit working! A little clean up and it ready to go back to the client. Please note: there are MANY things that are subtle adjustments and tweaks that only I do in the repair of these machines that would amount to entire book of details to which I have no time nor desire to publish. Suffice it to say, the client DOES get their moneys worth as some issues can take a few days to sort out. photos.app.goo.gl/CjOKkVJ7BJcp2Sv42
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brent
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by brent on May 7, 2019 18:22:57 GMT -8
I saved a USC2 from the dump. Fixed two of the power supplies. Cleaned the Tormat with a pink eraser and then contact cleaner. The carriage still can't find itself scanning back and forth until I manually toggle the subtract coil or power it off. I have bought enough books on this model to go blind.
I am looking for just a little direction where to look next. Thank you in advance, Brent
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brent
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by brent on May 8, 2019 17:18:38 GMT -8
Any ideas?
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